Sprouting Lavender Seeds: 4 Things Lavender NEEDS for Successful Germination

Growing lavender from seed: simple tips for success

 

   Starting lavender from seed can be tricky, so let’s talk about how to set yourself up for success.

    Lavender seeds are incredibly finicky. They prefer very particular conditions for germination, so they're not as easy to grow as beans or squash. They're also quite slow to get started at times, so some people may assume that the seeds are bad before they have a chance to grow. I've seen some take as long as 6 weeks! Therefore, you need a little patience, a little time, and a little knowledge. Once you've read this post, I can almost guarantee you'll have success with your lavender seeds. 

Lavender seedling started at home.

First and Foremost: Let's Start with the Freshest Seeds and the Right Variety!

    If you're a beginner, try to start with the freshest seed possible. Lavender seeds will drop in viability over the years, like many other seeds. I actually have a seed viability chart published in our little Facebook group that you can download for free (in the files section.) It's a really handy reference guide that'll help you figure out how viable the seeds in your collection are, allowing you to use up older seed so that you can replace it for the following year.

    There are also many different types of lavender. Do your research to find out which lavender will grow best in your growing zone, with your climate, and your soil type. Be mindful of high heat, high humidity, poor drainage, and seasonal lows. It's very important to pick lavender that can thrive in your climate, otherwise, you might run into issues with your plants later in the season.

Lavender seed & a lavender seedling side by side. Growing lavender from seed seems intimidating, but it's fairly easy once you get the hang of it!

Step 1: Cold Stratification, Mimicking Winter

    The first thing I want you to do is take your seed packet, even if it says “stratified”, and throw it in the freezer for two full weeks. If it’s already been stratified before, you might get away with one week, but I still recommend two for the best results.

Why do we do this?

    Freezing your seeds mimics winter. Many species, including lavender, won’t germinate until the seed has gone through freezing and thawing. It’s a survival mechanism: it prevents the seeds from sprouting at terrible times, like during late summer or early fall. If a seed sprouts at that time, it won't have time to flower and go to seed before winter; if the species wants to survive, it needs the next generation to have the best chance at growing, flowering, and seeding. Therefore, they remain dormant until winter weather has passed. Thawing and warming “wakes” the seed up and signals that spring is coming, giving the seedlings the best chance at survival and reproduction. That’s why many gardeners talk about freezing as a way to “wake up” dormant seeds.

Lavender seedlings in netted peat pellets. I don't use these pellets anymore, as the netting doesn't decompose. Not something I'd like to find in my garden the following year. 

Step 2: Preparing the Seeds

    Once you pull your seeds out of the freezer, grab a paper towel and moisten it. Scatter your seeds over the surface of the wet paper towel. Don’t fold the towel over and don’t cover the seeds. Lavender needs light to germinate, just like blueberries, strawberries, and many other herbs.

Lavender seeds need four things to sprout:

• Stratification
• Moisture
• Warmth
• Light

    If you’re ever struggling with a difficult seed type, remembering those four things will solve most of your germination problems.

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Lavender seedlings after becoming more established. These seedlings were likely 2 months old at this point in time. Once they get passed the first few leaves, they pick up speed with growth. 

Step 3: Bag Method Germination

    Next, slide your paper towel into a plastic sandwich bag. Take care to keep the seeds from bunching up, and be sure that the paper towel remains flat, so that the seeds aren't covered. Remember: they need access to light to sprout. Make sure the towel is fully moist, add a few extra drops of water if needed. Then press out all the air and seal the bag. Now they're ready to grow! 

    Lavender seeds can be slow to sprout, so this method locks in moisture and humidity, allowing you to check on them less often. If you simply laid them over soil and left that pot in your window, you may accidentally forget about the seedlings and allow them to dry out over the 1-6 week germination period. Therefore, the plastic bag method is what I recommend. 

English Lavender Seedling beginning to form lateral branches in a starter cup. This is usually the point where the young plants begin to take off in growth! Growing lavender from seed is incredibly rewarding, give it a try! 

Step 4: Giving the Seeds Warmth and Light

    You’ve got a few options here, so I recommend getting creative! You can tape the bag to a southern-facing window. This will provide both solar warmth and light- you'll just have to make sure that you check on the seeds frequently as they could sprout very quickly with this method.

    If you have a greenhouse, you can use that, too. It might not get warm enough during late winter or early spring, so be sure that the seeds are getting adequate warmth in a greenhouse.

    A third option would involve a seedling heat mat and grow lights. Many gardeners have these, but those who are starting out might not- again, I'll redirect you to the window in this situation. A southern window warms up during the day and cools down at night, which mimics natural spring temperature swings. That fluctuation helps wake the seeds even faster. You don't NEED a seedling heat mat for growing your own seeds, but the growing lights? I highly recommend those. 

    If none of these options work, you could also tape them to your coffee maker. The seeds will heat and cool frequently, mimicking spring. They'll also have ambient light from your overhead lighting. There are a lot of unique ways to do this! There's also the winter sowing method, or jug method. 

Germination & Transplanting: Lavender Seedlings

    In the above video, I show you my germination results from a few years ago. Lavender requires time, light, warmth, and moisture; with those things, you'll have baby lavender plants coming out of your ears! If you don't see root development, be patient. 

    If after six weeks you still see no signs of root development, there could be three potential causes of failed germination: lack of stratification, soil contaminants, or non-viable seed (may be old or exposed to harsh storage conditions.) At this point, I would try a new batch of seeds in combination with new medium if you used soil or substrate. If you saw root development but the seedlings died, opt for a new medium, as that's likely the culprit for seedling failure. In my free eBook (50 Mistakes I Wouldn't Make Again), I mention that I never trust bags of soil anymore without testing them; a few years ago, I lost a large chunk of my rare hot pepper collection due to contaminated soil. So always question the soil when you have poor performance from your seeds- it likely isn't you, or the seeds.

Final Thoughts & Discussion

    Growing lavender from seed is quite a little learning curve, but it's not impossible or very hard at all! The benefit of mastering lavender is that, if you can grow lavender, you will find that growing most other seeds will be quite easy. I highly recommend lavender as a beginner project for new gardeners, simply because it IS a learning curve. 

    Did you give lavender seeds a try? How did it go? Do you have any tips that you'd like to share for new gardeners when it comes to growing lavender?

Lavender seedling in a seed starting cup- did you know that lavender requires light, heat, moisture, and stratification?